Hold up, another dessert already? It’s true— on the heels of my mint julep cupcakes (which were, by the way, as popular for this year’s Kentucky Derby shindig as last year), I am pushing ahead with another sweet treat.
This decision defies one of my self-imposed blogging rules of alternating food categories to keep things interesting. Under these guidelines, I should be posting a salad right now, or a pizza or cocktail or something. After three or four more posts, then it would be acceptable for me to post another dessert. Here I am, though, breaking the rules with a bright and shiny citrus and almond cake that’s drenched in orange simple syrup.
Sometimes my own rules get in the way of my creativity. Where in the world does that rule even come from? I have found a clue, right here in the Spotify playlist that I frequently have running as I cook, bake and generally work around the house. One day recently, I was dumbfounded when the shuffle feature ended up playing a George Harrison tune right next to a Beatles track. I love both, but c’mon! With such a ginormous library, couldn’t they mix it up better than that?
As a former radio personality— who also had the sometimes unenviable duty of pre-scheduling all of the music for my station— I am deeply conditioned toward two principles we called “rotation” and “artist separation.” The first speaks to the idea of giving a song a minimum rest time before you play it again, and the latter is an intentional placing of songs in a seemingly random order to ensure variety on a number of levels. On its face, this meant not scheduling two Beyoncé songs too close together (which was tricky after her solo success butted up against all the Destiny’s Child hits we were already playing).
But it wasn’t just the artists and bands by name. Mine was a Top 40 station, and that meant tempo, intensity, genre, vocal style and, yes, even gender were targets of this music scheduling protocol. It was a tough order, and we periodically bent some of the rules just to stay on the air. The worst was the one against playing two female artists back to back (this never applied to male artists, of course, and I’ll save my grievances about that b.s. for another day). From a purely logistical standpoint, separating the women artists was beyond difficult, especially after Lilith Fair came to town in the late 1990s.
The upshot is in that clumsy Spotify moment, I came to realize how much I subconsciously apply the concept of separation to other things in my life, including my food blog, and I’m thinking that it’s time to relax a few of these weird rules. Yes, my last post was about cupcakes. But maybe you don’t actually mind seeing and reading about another dessert this week, especially one as pretty as this!
Next time, though, probably a pizza. 😏
My inspiration for this almond-citrus cake came from Instagram, and a content creator named Betul Tunc, keeper of @turkuazkitchen. Her recipes are as relaxing to watch as I imagine they are delicious to eat. The backdrop is always the same— a rustic, Old World kitchen setup with a nearby window for natural light. We don’t see anything of her but her skillful hands and old-fashioned apron. You must already have some seasoned cooking skills to understand her techniques, and she usually pins a few specific instructions in the comments section of her posts. She is delightful, and her food always looks so comforting. She just finished a cookbook as well, due to be released this fall. I have no doubt that will be pure eye candy!
Amazing, right? When I watched Betul making this gorgeous cake, I knew that I wanted to adapt the layered citrus technique to a flourless, non-dairy version for Passover. I researched a few recipes for almond flour cake, adjusted ingredient amounts to accommodate a slightly larger pan, and then mixed and matched ideas for my own version of the gradient color cake. It turned out beautiful and delicious! Let’s get to it.
Tips for Success
I’ll share a few bits of advice that helped me along the way, plus suggestions for myself next time I want to make it.
First, choose citrus fruits that are similar in size, so that overlapping the slices in the cake pan is easier and more uniform. One of my oranges was quite large and I found it tricky to make the layers work. I used two blood oranges (I got lucky with two different colors!), two cara cara oranges and a large Meyer lemon.
You’ll be eating the peel, so organic is best, and be sure to gently wash the citrus in warm, soapy water first— yes, you heard me. Wash the citrus with soap, and then rinse and dry it before slicing. You’d be shocked at the amount of dirty water I poured down the drain after this step. Use a dish detergent that has no fragrance.
Slice the fruit in thin enough slices to layer, but thick enough to hold together. This will be somewhere between 1/4 and 3/8-inch slices, and they should all be the same. Give the citrus slices plenty of time to simmer in the simple syrup, so that the peel becomes soft and pliable. This helps remove the bitterness as well. Also, plan for the citrus to shrink a bit during the candy stage. I ended up simmering extra slices to ensure good overlap beneath the cake batter. Save the ends of the oranges for their juice in the final simple syrup that will be spooned over the cake.
Simmer the lighter colored citrus to your simple syrup first! I discovered quickly how much the blood oranges gave off their brilliant color, and to prevent them staining the lighter slices, I pulled them off to a plate, finishing the simmering in stages. This took about 45 minutes total, and I feel quite sure that you could tackle this task a day ahead to save preparation time on baking day— but bring the orange slices back to room temperature before you bake. Do not discard the leftover syrup!
Separate your eggs while they’re cold, but bring them to room temperature before you begin making the cake. The whites will be whipped until fluffy and folded into the batter at the end. Remember that your mixing bowl and whisk must be completely clean, with no oils or even a drop of yolk, or the egg whites will not beat up fluffy for mixing into the batter. Use a paper towel and white vinegar to wipe them down, just to be sure.
Finally, for preparation of the pan, use a fitted round of parchment paper in the bottom, to ensure that the thin citrus slices don’t stick and cause a problem. Spray the pan with olive oil spray and sprinkle sugar into it before carefully layering your citrus, overlapping tightly and completely so that no batter slips underneath.
Ideally, you want the parchment to slide right off when you invert and plate the finished cake. If you have any lingering “eggy” edges, as I did, simply scratch them off with a toothpick before glazing the top of the cake with additional citrus syrup. Instructions for the final syrup are included below in the click-to-print recipe card.
This cake checked a lot of boxes for me— technique in the layer effect (thank you, Betul!), flourless batter (thanks, King Arthur, Eating Well and other sites) and beauty (thank you, nature, for lovely contribution of red, pink, orange and pale yellow citrus)!
We enjoyed this cake at a Passover meal with friends. It would be perfectly appropriate for a Mother’s Day brunch or dessert for company, and especially in the winter when the citrus are at their peak. Enjoy!
Almond Citrus Cake
Inspired by @turkuazkitchen on Instagram, this cake incorporates a beautiful technique with a gluten-free, non-dairy cake that is as delicious as it is pretty!
Ingredients
- 4 oranges, different colors, cut into 1/4-inch to 3/8-inch slices (reserve ends for juice)
- 1/3 cup organic cane sugar (plus another 1/3 cup that you’ll add to the final syrup at the end)
- 1/2 cup water
- 2 Tbsp. fresh orange juice (squeeze this from one of the orange ends)
Directions
- Combine water and 1/3 cup of the sugar in a large, wide sauce pot. Add orange juice and stir until all sugar is dissolved and syrup reaches a light boil.
- Add orange slices in batches (light colors first), and simmer for about 20 minutes, checking periodically to be sure each slice is getting equal time in the syrup mixture. Transfer slices to a plate to cool and repeat with remaining oranges until are candied. They should be soft and pliable, which will make it easy to layer them later. Reserve the remaining simple syrup for the step 8 of the cake instructions.
- When ready to bake, use spray oil to lightly coat a 9-inch non-stick pan, then place a round of parchment in the bottom. Spray the parchment lightly and sprinkle two tablespoons sugar all over the bottom and up the sides somewhat. Arrange cooled orange slices, overlapping so that no parchment is visible through the layers.
Ingredients
- 5 eggs, separated (do this when eggs are cold)
- 1/2 cup organic cane sugar, divided + 2 Tbsp. for prepping pan
- zest of one orange
- 1/2 tsp. almond extract
- 1/2 tsp. Fiori di Sicilia (or vanilla extract)
- 1 3/4 cup fine almond flour
- 1 1/4 tsp. baking powder
- 3/8 tsp. fine sea salt
Directions
- Heat oven to 350° F, with oven rack in center position.
- In a stand mixer, with blade attachment, beat egg yolks and 1/4 cup sugar until evenly combined and somewhat fluffy.
- Add orange zests and extracts and beat until blended.
- In a medium bowl, whisk together almond flour, baking powder and salt. Add this mixture in batches to the egg mixture and beat until evenly combined. It will be a dense, almost paste-like batter.
- In yet another bowl, use a hand mixer to whip the egg whites until frothy. Gradually add remaining 1/4 cup sugar while whipping, finishing when the whites reach a soft peak stage that resembles meringue.
- Gently fold the whipped egg whites into the dense batter, beginning with only 1/2 cup and gradually adding more. It will feel impossible at first, but after the first two additions of whipped egg whites, it will become easier and smoother.
- Spoon the cake batter over the layered orange slices, taking care not to disturb the arrangement. Gently smooth the top of the batter. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool it in the pan for about 15 minutes, then invert onto a serving plate and peel off parchment. Use a toothpick to lift and remove any edges of batter that seeped under the citrus during baking.
- While the cake bakes, add another 1/3 cup sugar and the juice of all the remaining orange ends to the reserved simple syrup. Stir and cook until all sugar is dissolved. Spoon warm citrus syrup over the entire cake. Reserve remaining syrup to drizzle over at serving time.